My first experience of the American West began in Salt Lake City the summer I was 14. My family rented an RV, and headed south from the city toward canyon country following I-15. We came from the lush, green, rolling hills of West Virginia, and had never been west of the Mississippi before. My brother and sisters and I pressed our faces against the windows of our camper, staring in awe as the towering, snow-capped Wasatch Mountains gradually gave way to the painted cliffs of the Colorado Plateau. We stopped at parks and forests along the way to run down inland sand dunes, wander through fantastical twisted hoodoos, splash our way up narrow canyons, sleep out under the stars, and be serenaded by packs of howling coyotes.
Today the route from Salt Lake City to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon remains one of my all-time favorite road trips. There’s a little bit of everything along the way: mountains, deserts, lakes, and canyons. You can go from the bustling urban experience of Salt Lake or Saint George, to walking along through silent ponderosa forests near Cedar City. The highway winds through a land rich with history? Native Americans, cowboys, polygamists, hearty Mormon pioneers, and outlaws left their mark here, as well as outdoor recreational opportunities such as mountain biking, hiking, rock climbing, skiing, snowmobiling, and much more.
1. Salt Lake City:
Take time to head downtown and wander around Temple Square in Salt Lake. One of the most visited tourist sites in Utah, Temple Square contains the heart of the state’s history and culture. Home to the headquarters of the Church of Latter Day Saints, the 10-acre complex contains numerous buildings, museums and displays that tell the story of the Mormon settlers’ journey to the valley of the Great Salt Lake and the establishment of the state of Utah. The Mormon Tabernacle Choir holds concerts throughout the year here, and the square is within easy walking distance of Salt Lake’s bustling downtown business district where you can find shopping, dining, and other historical attractions.
2. Wasatch Mountains:
Utah is known to have the “World’s Best Snow”: light, low-density powder that people call “cold smoke”. If you happen to be heading to the Grand Canyon in the winter (which in the Wasatch can extend from late November into April), it’s worth heading up one of the canyons to experience what all the hype is about. World-class ski resorts, Alta, Snowbird and Park City, are all within minutes of the I-15 corridor. Smaller, family-oriented resorts are also available for those looking for a lower-key skiing or snowboarding experience. Either way, if you are lucky enough to time your visit so it coincides with a storm, you’ll be bragging about face shots and snorkel skiing for years after you return home. And in the summer, these mountains are transformed into alpine wonderlands. The slopes become a brilliant tapestry of colorful wildflowers and myriad trails transport visitors into the wilderness just minutes from your car.
3. Provo, Utah:
Home to Brigham Young University, Provo is a thriving, vibrant city nestled up against the flanks of the Wasatch Mountains and offering an exciting mix of urban entertainment and easy access to outdoor recreation. The Provo River, flowing down through nearby Provo Canyon, was named one of the top ten “blue ribbon” trout streams in the West by Field and Stream magazine. You don’t even have to hike to angle; just pull of the road, hop the guardrail and you will find yourself thigh-deep in a glittering, clear river that teems with savvy trout. Provo Canyon is also home to Robert Redford’s Sundance Resort, which offers a full array of services: spa treatments, hiking and mountain biking trails, luxurious accommodations, skiing, snowboarding and fine dining. http://www.sundanceresort.com/
4. Yuba State Park:
25 miles south of Nephi, just off I-15, Yuba State Park is home to a 22-mile long reservoir that makes a great layover spot for road-weary travelers. Kids can stretch, run, play and swim, while adults can relax on the beach, fish for a walleye, or take a quick nap. The reservoir is popular for camping, picnicking and all forms of water sport. (http://www.utah.com/stateparks/yuba.htm)
5. Brian Head Resort:
Brian Head Resort, located just east of I-15 in the Dixie National Forest, is Utah’s highest ski resort with a base elevation of 9,600 feet. In the winter, the mountain offers reliable snow and an extended season for downhill and cross-country skiing, snow tubing, snowboarding and snowshoeing. In the summer, Brian Head transforms itself into a mountain biker’s paradise with trails for all levels of ability from radical downhill runs with jumps and obstacles that entertain experts, to buffed flat tracks through the ponderosa for kids or beginners. Brian Head’s high elevation makes it cooler than surrounding environs in the summer, providing visitors with a welcome reprieve from the searing heat found down low. (http://www.brianhead.com/)
6. Cedar City, Utah:
Located approximately five hours south of Salt Lake City, Cedar City makes a good overnight stopping point for travelers en route to the Grand Canyon. The city is home to the Utah Shakespearean Festival (http://www.bard.org/) and plays can be seen throughout the summer and fall season. Just south of Cedar City lies the northwestern corner of Zion National Park, Kolob Canyons. There is no direct vehicular access from the main part of the park to Kolob Canyons, so this remote corner remains relatively unvisited. A five-mile scenic drive winds through Kolob Canyon’s red cliffs and narrow canyons, or you can stop and take a day hike up the Middle Fork of Taylor Creek. This hike, which takes around four hours to complete, follows a small drainage that narrows into a slot canyon festooned with hanging gardens of maidenhair ferns and monkey flower. After 2.7 miles, you’ll come to the Double Arch Alcove, a large amphitheater of stone where the light sparkles and plays in the shadows and the sound of waterfalls echo off the rock.
7. Cedar Breaks National Monument:
Just 22 miles east of Cedar City, Cedar Breaks National Monument is similar to its more famous cousin, Bryce Canyon National Park, but much less visited. The eroded badlands, colored yellow, pink, red, and purple by iron and manganese found in the soft rock, form a natural amphitheater three miles across and 2,000 feet deep. The canyon’s rim is located at 10,000 feet above sea level, so it’s cool even when the lowlands are steaming. Three hiking trails ranging from a quick half-hour jaunt to a more difficult full-day hike, take you down among the intricate hoodoos, spires and arches carved into the colorful rock that make up the breaks, a word used by early settlers to describe these rugged badlands. Cedar Breaks holds star parties throughout the summer to celebrate and share the brilliant nights skies found above this dark corner of the world. In July, the monument hosts a month-long wildflower festival and in late September, early October you can catch the autumn foliage. USA Today named Cedar Breaks as one of the Top Ten Place to experience fall colors in the United States. The monument is closed from late October until mid-May most years because of snow.
8. Saint George, Utah:
Saint George offers travelers with the usual urban amenities: restaurants, accommodations, shopping, and golfing, but there are a few gems in the area that set the town apart. Eleven miles northwest of the city center you’ll find Snow Canyon, named not for the white stuff, but for Lorenzo and Erastus Snow, two important leaders in early Utah history and the Mormon Church. Snow Canyon boasts of 16-miles of hiking trails, more than 100 technical rock climbing routes, horseback riding, year-round camping, nature watching and much more. In nearby Ivins, Utah, you’ll find the Tuacahn Center for the Performing Arts, which is dedicated to providing high-quality arts education (the center includes a charter high school for the performing arts) and inspiring entertainment. You can see Broadway musicals, concerts, or classical theatre at Tuacahn throughout the year. Check out their calendar to see what’s on the schedule during your visit (http://www.tuacahn.org/).
9. Zion National Park:
Zion at sunrise or sunset feels like a cathedral. Salmon and buff-colored sandstone walls glow above you while the canyon floor is bathed in shadows and a silence broken only by the gentle sound of the breeze drifting through the cottonwoods or the trickle of the Virgin River, flowing across the canyon floor. You can spend a few hours or a few weeks in Zion. For those just passing through, ride the shuttle bus into the canyon stopping off for a few short “leg-stretcher” walks to nearby scenic attractions, and perusing the visitor center to learn more about the park’s history, geology, flora and fauna. If you have more time, you can explore farther a field, escaping the crowds and immersing yourself in the area’s unique beauty. For more on Zion, visit the park’s website http://www.nps.gov/zion. Just outside the park, Gooseberry Mesa is the site of a number of exciting mountain bike trails. http://www.utah.com/bike/trails/gooseberry.htm
10. Kanab, Utah and Fredonia, Arizona:
Called “Little Hollywood” by locals for the area’s history as a location for filming some of America’s classic western dramas, Kanab and Fredonia serve as a kind of “last stop” for visitors heading into the Grand Canyon’s North Rim and the Kaibab National Forest Wilderness. Here you can fill up your gas tank, stock your hampers, shower and sleep before venturing off into the wild. But don’t hurry through too quickly. Not far from the two towns, you’ll find Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park. Known for its 1,000-acre off-road vehicle play area, hiking trails, and scenic splendor, the park’s pink sand dunes form a unique playground to explore. Kanab and Fredonia also provide visitors with a gateway into the Kaibab National Forest Wilderness Area. Centered around Kanab Creek, one of the major tributaries to the Colorado River, the canyons and mesas of the Kaibab Wilderness offer backpackers with a uniquely intimate Grand Canyon experience. The area is also famous for its ancient rock art.
The North Rim:
You’ve made it!
